Fluid silhouettes, colour palette reminiscent of water colour paintings and an unconditional belief in the power of functionality are at the core of Anavila Misra’s design universe. Known for her textile innovations and love for linen, the designer combines her signature block printing with indigenous crafts and textiles such as batik, jamdani and khatwa at her eponymous label. Among the many techniques employed, Misra has been closely working with khatwa, an appliqué work that originated in Bihar, and was locally used to create decorative tents, canopies, wall handguns and home furnishings. From her debut runway collection to her most recent launch, the brand’s lightweight drapes and separates are enhanced with the patch needlework. She walks us through her initiation with the craft and process, with a glimpse at the season’s offerings of floral khatwa in pastel tones.

What is Khatwa?

“Khatwa as a technique was used to create narratives about the artisans’ lives in the village and mostly made into wall art, cushions, and bed covers. The products were sold in local haats as exhibitions outside these villages. These artisans were trained under an NGO, a long time back and continued to spread the practice of the art by training interested women in the villages around them.”

To make khatwa, the intended design is drawn on both the upper layer of cloth and the base fabric, after which the upper layer is cut roughly into the shape of the pattern or motif, leaving a wide margin. This margin is then segmented with cuts, folded down and stitched into the planned shape. In some cases where the design has only two colours, the upper layer is strategically cut and stitched down to reveal the patterns and motifs through the contrasting colour of the base fabric. Embroidery with a silk thread, in the form of running stitch and chain stitch, features prominently in the appliqued designs. The waste cloth may also be naturally dyed before being used for applique, and while a wide range of colours is used, the preferred palette for khatwa today are earth tones and muted.